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56volt garbage!

In no time you will be honing into the plastic backing.

I need better drawers for my power tools....something like Milwaukee and Dewalt have...

WICKED EASY @!@@!!! ! ! !🎉

What does it do … besides make Domino holes? (And put drainage holes in my wife’s wood planters?)

I’ve been looking for a good centre marking tool recently, watched this and thought I’d found the one but I’m in the UK and Bridge City don’t ship internationally. Anyone know UK-friendly alternatives?

El Cheepo here, great tips Sedge. I use my Rockler offset/center finding jig for finding dead center the few time I need it. Since I'm using mostly plywood or wood under 2" wide, it works great. For a lot of work, I have a small Milwaukee Carpenter's square that has an off set base of 1/4" & 3/8'. It's great for laying out brad or screw lines quickly on the edge or end of plywood. For longer lines I keep my TSO Rail square on a shorter pieces of track from my track saw kit. I also keep a metric saddle square in my LR32 kit as well. And no work gets done in the shop without my trusty FastCap "Yellow" 16' tape measure near by. The "Other" Warren from Caldwell Idaho.

Sedge, you’re the greatest! After watching this, I’ve regained my confidence in doing roundovers. Now I’ll NEVER make the mistake again. Best, clearest teacher ever (and funny to boot!).😊 Thanks for your work!

Thank you for your teachings. I use all these tools and for this moment,( before my next miscut...) I feel a tiny bit Sedge-Level.

Who knew someone with a Boston accent used metric. 😮

I’ve really like using my marking gauge instead of those pocket rules. In order to make it easy to see I run my pencil in the cut line. I bought the titemark from the lie Nielsen site. Love it!

Great tools. I I have the smaller TSO Triangle and I love it. I use it way more than I originally expected. No woodpeckers yet. One day….

I use Aerospace 303 with similar results.

2:42 Cut to the chase (RULE NUMBER #1)

Pull the green lid off of the pica to replace the led.

I've got the Woodpeckers's Saddle squares and the Bridge City center finder tool. Both are excellent tools. The saddle squares really shine when using a marking knife. The center finder is nice because, unlike a lot of other center finders, this one has a much wider opening for thicker pieces of wood. Great recommendations Sedge.

Sedge, on your Festool videos I have viewed your use of a Tape measure for inside measurements. The top of the tape has a window that shows, accurately, the distance measured. Whose tape is that? How to acquire? Thanks. Favorite Tape: Lee Valley Cabinet Makers 10' Tape, Light, small, remove the belt clip and carry in your jeans pocket. Imperial only, wish for Metric version.

I’m not gonna argue with some of the comments but Sedge somehow we know when money is well spent you don’t have to have every expensive tool but but what works in your craft is what counts! Love it keep up the great videos and always thanks for sharing!

Sedge, which bevel gauge do you prefer ?

Besides what you mentioned. Woodpeckers Tool 1812 or 2616 squares and Woodpeckers t squares. I also have and use Woodpeckers MT Center Gauge for mortise and tenon plus center marking. Thank you for sharing your experiences with us. Stay safe everyone.

I use a FastCap (same as yours) and a Bosch green-beam laser for longer distances.

I love my sashigane, a Japanese carpenters square made of spring steel that has mm, 1/10th and 1/16th inches, 4" depth guage, and a root-2 ruler for miters. Some also have a pi-ruler for getting circumferences from diameters instantly. There is a ton to it, from the special profile to tricks with the root-2 ruler, and I feel wicked smaaht when I use it, haha! It's basically a geometric calculator.

To anyone wondering, that self centering jig he showed is from bridge city and it most likely cost more than the other tools he showed. Combined.

Where do I find the mechanical pencil you’re using in this video? I do love how you make absolutely everything about woodcraft fun and exciting!

Great intel!! Love the self centering marking jig!! Keep the tips coming!!

Tip is, When adjusting feet on a long run is to do the corners first, get it level then drop the middle feet down. This way it is so much easier so you aren’t constantly having to micro adjust.

that was a great video, that was some amazing tips thanks for that

Another great video. Layout. Layout Layout!

My favorite is the fast cap as well. I like all the same things that you mentioned. Since I own the LR32 system now I like those diamonds at the 32 increments. And I like that it’s both imperial and metric since I am venturing out and making the jump from imperial to metric. I did just finish watching your older video on cabinets. I really liked the tape measure you used in it while measuring the inside of the cabinet. I think it was festool. Definitely want to look more into that.

Great video. I’ve watched a lot of cabinet videos. Everyone has their own tips and tricks. Glad I watched this.

I have a TSC 55 KEB and the blade has gone out of alignment. I cannot see in the manual how to correct this toe in. Can you let me know how to find out how to fix this? Thanks, Brian

It helps, thank you

Great tip. Thanks!

I just picked up one of these today for a bargain price on FB marketplace. Spent the afternoon cleaning it up. I’ll get a brand new pair of HEPA filters for it and hoping I’ll get a few years out of it.

Can't believe you didn't break out the HL 850 E Planer!

Great vid! Thanks for doing this. Just like you I started with the mower and now own snowblower, 16” chainsaw and now the new carbon fiber multi-head with string trimmer. My favorite tool so far is the chainsaw, it’s amazing! But EGO is by far the best in battery powered tools.

Wouldnt it be better to adjust the rail rather than the square?

Komelon Pro ergo, Stanley powerlock when doing joinery, Stanley fatmax an centerlock carpentry.Want to try fastcap now

Just use a hinge cutting jig, but I understand your showing off the possibilities of the router

I have a few similar stops I 3d printed, they're not as nice but plastic won't nick your blade if you hit them which is a bonus. I've also tested my own 3d printed power-locs, I have to put a larger chamfer lip on them for strength, but they're surprisingly strong. I had to cantilever a board off the bench like a diving board and drop a 30lb kettlebell on it to break them

I disagree, the accuracy of the cutting edge should be the reason to replace it.

Thanks quick useful tips..

Hi Sedge, I'm about to start a project where I will have a whole lot of bevels on a flat connection and this video is absolutely perfect for me (a new owner of a 500!). Thank you. However, I'm a little foggy on the math with the 4mm offset... I watched a couple of time, but am trying to figure out how I can apply the right thinking to my project where I will have various angles intersecting a straight piece.... Would love to see a Festool Live dedicated to this subject, or another one here showing different angles/applications. But I think if I keep watching this over and over I may get it. Thank you for inspiring me to get the 500!!! - Mike

Metric is far easier than Imperial. Like a handful of countries still use Imperial....

Great video. Something tells me you love Festool ;) I have never seen so much Festool in my life. Amazing products!

I am building, in place, oak book shelves from lumber I have harvested and dimensioned from my own land. They will be 12" deep and 8' tall. They must be built in place because of the size and will cover 2 walls in the room. My question is this: How do I use my domino to correctly cut mortises identically for each vertical shelf board? I own the two Festool LR32 track with the adapter for a Domino tool. Do you think this would allow for precision or is there a better way?

Till now I thought our german "bohren" is "to drill" now I know you can "bore" a hole ^^ funny how different languages have same words. I made my own low profile stops from wood so I'm not afraid of ruining my planer

So I’m confused ( and a newbie) about how to use the micro adjustment on the guide rail. If you line the router up against the green strip like in your demo, the micro djist doesn’t move the router as it doesn’t adjust wide enough. For the micro adjust to work, router needs to sit on the green strip? A video on this would be great as I know I’m missing something. Also, why is using both guides on both sections of the rail a no no.

I've used the jig that came with my Parf Guide kit as you did, but I had to drill the 3mm pilot holes first. The point on the 20mm cutter that came with my Parf Guide kit does not have a cutting edge and needs a pilot hole.

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